How to Fix a Leaky Faucet: A Step-by-Step Guide for Homeowners

That steady drip-drip-drip from your kitchen or bathroom faucet is more than just an annoyance. It is a slow drain on your water bill and a potential source of mold or damage to your sink and countertop. The good news is that most leaky faucets are a straightforward do-it-yourself repair, and you likely already have the basic tools to handle the job. Whether you are dealing with a compression faucet in an older bathroom or a modern cartridge model in your kitchen, the approach is similar. You do not need to be a master plumber to stop that drip and save yourself a service call.

Before you start, you need to know what kind of faucet you have. Take a peek under the sink and at the handle design. If your faucet has separate hot and cold handles that turn several times, you are probably looking at a compression faucet. These are the old workhorses and they leak when the rubber washer inside wears out. If you have a single handle that moves up and down for flow and side to side for temperature, you have a cartridge or ball-type faucet, common in kitchens. The third type uses ceramic discs, which are very durable and rarely leak except when debris gets caught inside. Knowing which one you have tells you which internal part to replace.

The first step is always to turn off the water. Locate the shutoff valves under the sink, usually small chrome or plastic knobs on the pipes coming out of the wall. Turn them clockwise until they stop. Open the faucet to release any pressure and clear the line. If the water does not stop, you may need to shut off the main water valve for the house. Once the water is off, plug the sink drain with a stopper or a rag so you do not accidentally drop a tiny screw or washer into the drain. That little piece can be a hassle to fish out.

For a compression faucet, the leak usually comes from the stem assembly. Use a crescent wrench to unscrew the handle, then use pliers or a deep socket to remove the packing nut that holds the stem in place. Pull the stem out, and you will see a small rubber washer at the bottom held by a brass screw. Remove that screw and replace the washer with an identical one from a hardware store. While you are at it, grease the threads lightly with plumber’s grease and replace the O-ring on the stem. Reassemble in reverse order, tighten the packing nut gently, and turn the water back on. If the faucet is still leaking, you may need to replace the seat inside the valve body with a seat wrench, but that is less common.

For a single-handle cartridge faucet, the leak is often from the cartridge itself. Remove the handle by prying off the decorative cap and unscrewing the set screw. Then pull off the handle and the retaining clip or nut that holds the cartridge. Grip the cartridge with pliers and pull straight up; it might be stubborn, so wiggle it gently. Take the old cartridge to the hardware store to match it, or look up the brand and model online. Install the new cartridge exactly as the old one came out, making sure the notches line up. Slide the retaining clip back on, reattach the handle, and test it. This is usually a quick fix that stops the leak for years.

Ball-type faucets, common in some kitchen models, have a rotating ball inside that controls flow and temperature. These leak when the springs and seals under the ball wear out. You will need a specialty repair kit with a hex key and a new set of rubber parts. Remove the handle and unscrew the cap using a spanner or channel locks. Pull out the ball and replace the springs and seals in the bottom of the body. A little plumber’s grease helps everything slide. Reinstall the ball, cap, and handle, then test for leaks.

Ceramic disc faucets rarely leak from the cartridge, but if they do, you usually need to replace the entire cartridge. The process is similar to a single-handle cartridge faucet, but these are often more expensive parts. Before diving in, check if your faucet has a water filter screen at the tip of the spout. Sometimes a leak or a low flow is actually just a clogged aerator, not a faulty valve. Unscrew the aerator with pliers and a towel to protect the finish, soak it in vinegar overnight to dissolve mineral deposits, and reassemble.

No matter which type you have, always test your work before you put everything away. Turn the water back on slowly, open the faucet, and let it run for a minute. Check for drips at the spout and at the base of the handle. A tiny weep can often be fixed by tightening the packing nut just a quarter turn more. If you see water pooling under the sink after running the faucet, check the supply lines and the connections you disturbed. A little tightening with a wrench usually solves it.

One common mistake is overtightening. Faucet parts are usually brass or plastic, and you can crack them if you crank too hard. Hand tight plus a quarter turn with a wrench is often plenty. Also, remember to clean off any old pipe dope or tape from the threads before reassembling. A clean seal is a leak-free seal.

If you try all of these steps and the faucet still drips, you might be dealing with a deeper issue like a cracked valve body or a worn-out seat. In those cases, it can be more cost-effective to replace the entire faucet rather than chase a phantom leak. But for the overwhelming majority of dripping faucets, a simple washer, cartridge, or seal replacement will solve the problem in under an hour.

Taking the time to fix that drip not only saves water and money but also gives you a sense of satisfaction every time you turn on the tap. You have the skills to handle this common home repair, and your kitchen and bathroom will thank you with a silent, steady stream instead of that endless reminder of a small problem that you finally conquered.