If you own an above ground pool, you know that feeling when summer starts to fade and the leaves begin to turn. Suddenly, you realize it’s time to think about closing the pool for the season. Don’t let that moment stress you out. Winterizing your above ground pool doesn’t have to be a chore you dread. In fact, with a little know‑how and a steady hand, you can protect your investment and make next year’s grand opening a breeze. Let me walk you through the process in a way that makes sense for a regular homeowner, not a pool professional.
The first step is all about chemistry. Your pool water needs a little TLC before you seal it up for months. Start by balancing your water a week or two before you plan to close. That means checking the pH, alkalinity, and calcium hardness. You want the pH around 7.4 to 7.6, alkalinity between 80 and 120 parts per million, and calcium hardness in the 200 to 400 range. If everything looks good, go ahead and give the water a good shock treatment. A non‑chlorine shock works great because it won’t hurt your pool cover later. After shocking, let the pump run for a full 24 hours to circulate everything. At that point, you’ll want to add a winterizing algaecide and a stain‑and‑scale chemical. These prevent ugly green growth and mineral deposits from forming while the pool sits idle. Let the pump run for another few hours, then turn off the filter system.Now comes the physical work — and it’s the part where most homeowners get a little nervous. You need to lower the water level. Most above ground pools require the water to be dropped below the return jets and the skimmer. Use your pool’s multiport valve to switch to waste mode and drain the water slowly. Keep an eye on the level; you typically want it about four to six inches below the skimmer opening. If you live in an area with heavy snow and ice, some experts recommend going a bit lower to allow for expansion without damaging the walls. Just don’t drain too much — the water inside helps support the walls against winter winds and ground pressure.While the water is down, take a moment to remove all the accessories. Unplug the pump and filter, drain them completely, and store them in a dry place like a garage or shed. Don’t forget the hoses, the ladder, the skimmer basket, and any floating toys. Every piece of equipment that can freeze and crack should be wintered indoors. If you have a saltwater chlorine generator, remove the cell and clean it according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For the filter itself, depending on whether yours is a sand, cartridge, or DE type, you’ll need to clean it thoroughly and then either store it or protect it with a filter cover.Speaking of covers — yes, you need a good one. An above ground pool cover is your best friend during the cold months. It keeps out leaves, dirt, snow, and animals, and it also reduces the growth of algae by blocking sunlight. There are two main types: a standard winter cover that goes over the top and cinches tight with cables, and a solar cover that floats on the water. For winter, go with the heavy‑duty winter cover. Before you put it on, make sure the pool’s coping and top rail are clean and free of sharp edges. Place an air pillow in the center of the pool before securing the cover. An air pillow is basically a large inflatable bag that sits on the water surface. It helps to absorb the pressure from ice expansion, which can crack walls or wreck the cover. Once the pillow is inflated and centered, drape the cover over the pool and use the included cable and winch system to tighten it down. Make sure it’s snug but not extreme — you want some slack to allow for water pooling on top.Now, a common mistake is forgetting about the skimmer and return lines. These are the parts most likely to freeze and burst. After you drain water below the skimmer, you can install a winterizing plug in the skimmer hole. Do the same for the return jets. Then, to be extra safe, you can blow out the lines with a shop vac or a special pool‑line blower. Attach the hose to the blower, seal the opening with a rag, and blow the remaining water out the other end. Once the lines are clear, push foam plugs into the openings, or install a gizmo (a special winterizing device) that absorbs expansion. It’s a little extra work for huge peace of mind.Finally, take a walk around your pool. Check the ladder mounting, the top rails, and the liner seam for any signs of wear. If you notice any small tears or loose panels, now is the time to fix them. Dry the liner with a towel and apply a patch kit. Also, spread a little bit of pool antifreeze (non‑toxic, made specifically for pools) into the skimmer and return line openings. Pour a cup or two into the pump if you’re storing it in place. This steps ensures that any trapped water won’t turn into ice and crack the housing.When everything is buttoned up, throw a couple of clean, old towels over the cover near the skimmer area to prevent rubbing, then put a few bricks or water bags around the perimeter to hold the cover down. Some folks also use a leaf net over the cover to keep heavy debris off. One last tip: mark your winterizing date on your calendar, and set a reminder for early spring to start thinking about opening. Nothing worse than forgetting and letting the water become a swamp.Winterizing your above ground pool might seem like a lot of steps, but once you do it right the first time, it becomes a yearly habit. You’ll save yourself money, time, and a headache when warm weather rolls back around. Your pool will thank you — and so will your future self.
