The Best Way to Anchor into Brick or Concrete

Let’s be honest, hanging something on drywall is a breeze, but when your project leads you to the unforgiving surface of brick or concrete, a little doubt can creep in. You’re not just making a hole; you’re creating a secure connection that needs to last. The good news is that with the right tools and know-how, anchoring into masonry is a very doable DIY task. The secret isn’t one magic anchor, but rather matching the right system to your specific job.

First things first, you absolutely must know what you’re drilling into. Tap the surface. A solid, deep “clink” means solid brick or concrete. A slightly hollow “clack” could indicate a brick veneer or a concrete block with hollow cavities behind that first layer. This distinction is crucial because it determines the type of anchor you’ll use. For any masonry work, your everyday drill just won’t cut it. You need a hammer drill. This fantastic tool doesn’t just spin; it hammers as it spins, chipping away the masonry like a mini jackhammer. For a handful of holes, a corded or cordless hammer drill is perfect. If you’re facing a lot of concrete, you might consider renting a more powerful rotary hammer, but for most household tasks, a standard hammer drill is your best friend.

Now, let’s talk about the anchors themselves, which is where most folks get tripped up. For lighter-duty jobs in solid brick or concrete, like hanging a house number, a small mirror, or a lightweight shelf, plastic sleeve anchors are a great starting point. You drill a hole to the specified size, tap the plastic anchor in, and as you tighten the screw, the sleeve expands behind the walls of the hole, locking it in place. They’re inexpensive and easy to use. A step up in strength are wedge anchors. These are all-steel and are the go-to for serious holding power in solid concrete, like for a handrail bracket or a heavy-duty bench. They work by slipping a steel sleeve over a threaded rod into the hole; when you tighten the nut, it pulls the rod up, causing the sleeve to expand and wedge itself tightly at the bottom of the hole.

But what if you hit a hollow space, like with those concrete blocks? That’s where toggle-style anchors shine. You drill a hole large enough for the spring-loaded wings to pass through. Once inside the hollow cavity, the wings spring open, and as you tighten the screw, they pull back against the interior wall of the block, distributing the weight over a large area. These are fantastic for medium loads in hollow materials. For the very heaviest duties—think a TV mount on a concrete wall or a large overhead projector—you’ll want to look into epoxy or chemical anchors. These involve injecting a two-part resin into a drilled hole and then inserting a threaded rod. Once it cures, you’ve essentially created a single, incredibly strong piece of metal set in stone. It’s the most involved method but offers unparalleled strength.

No matter which anchor you choose, the process has a few golden rules. Always drill your hole a bit deeper than the anchor length to allow for dust. A can of compressed air or a simple vacuum is your best pal for cleaning out that hole; a clean hole means a better grip. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for hole size religiously—this isn’t the time for guesswork. Finally, be patient and let the tool do the work. Don’t force the drill or over-tighten the anchor right away. With a little care and the right anchor for the job, you can tackle that brick or concrete wall with confidence, knowing your project is secured for the long haul. Your home just got a little more sturdy, and you gained a valuable new skill.