There’s nothing quite like that little click under your foot when you walk across a tile floor. At first, you might think you dropped a pebble or left something on your shoe. But when it happens again and again, you know the truth: one of your tile floors has come loose. While that sounds like a scary problem, it is actually one of the most fixable issues in the home. You do not need to rip up the whole floor, call in a contractor, or spend a fortune. You can repair that tile yourself in a weekend, and it will look just as good as when it was first installed.

The first thing to understand is why the tile is loose. Most tile floors are set in a layer of thin-set mortar that sticks the tile to the subfloor below. Over time, the mortar can break down. This can happen if the subfloor flexes, if the mortar was not mixed correctly, or if the floor is in a room with lots of temperature changes. The grout around the tile may start cracking too. That is actually a good clue that the tile itself is loose and needs attention. If you catch it early, you can usually save both the tile and the surrounding grout.

Before you start, gather the right tools. You will need a grout saw or an oscillating multi-tool with a grout blade, a putty knife, a chisel, a cordless drill with a mixing paddle, a notched trowel, tile spacers, thin-set mortar, grout, a rubber float, and a damp sponge. You will also want some painter’s tape to protect nearby tiles. It sounds like a long list, but most of these items are affordable and reusable for other projects.

Begin by removing the grout around the loose tile. Use your grout saw or multi-tool to carefully cut out the old grout. Work slowly and try not to press too hard against the neighboring tiles. Once the grout is gone, you should be able to lift the tile with a putty knife. If the tile feels stubborn, slide the putty knife under different edges until it pops free. The goal is to remove it without cracking or chipping the edges, because you are going to reuse the same tile.

With the tile out, clean the underside thoroughly. There will be old mortar stuck to it, and you need to get that down to a fairly smooth surface. A chisel and a little elbow grease usually do the trick. Also scrape the floor area where the tile sat. Remove any loose pieces or dust, but do not gouge the subfloor. A clean and flat surface is essential for a strong bond.

Now mix your thin-set mortar according to the package directions. The consistency should be similar to smooth peanut butter, not too runny and not too stiff. Using a drill with a mixing paddle makes this much easier and gives you a smoother result. Let the mortar sit for a few minutes after mixing, then stir it again. This is a simple trick that helps the mortar bond properly.

Use your notched trowel to spread a thin layer of mortar over the empty spot on the floor. Hold the trowel at an angle so the notches create neat ridges in the mortar. It is also a good idea to apply a thin skim coat to the back of the tile before setting it in place. This back-buttering technique ensures full coverage and helps prevent the tile from coming loose again. Set the tile carefully into the mortar, using the same tile spacers you would use for a new installation. The spacers keep the gaps even and help the tile line up with the floor around it. Gently press down on the tile and tap it with a rubber mallet or a block of wood until it sits level with the adjacent tiles. Wipe away any excess mortar that squeezes up between the gaps before it dries.

Let the thin-set mortar cure for at least 24 hours. Do not walk on the tile during this time. After the mortar has hardened, it is time to grout the gap. Choose a grout that matches the existing floor as closely as possible. Mix the grout according to the package instructions, then press it into the joints with a rubber float. Work it in well so there are no air pockets. After you have filled the joints, use a damp sponge to wipe off the excess from the surface of the tile. Rinse the sponge often and wipe in a circular motion to avoid pulling the grout out of the joints. When the grout has dried to a haze, buff the tile with a clean cloth.

A few extra tips can save you frustration. If the loose tile is in a spot where you cannot find a perfect match, consider borrowing a tile from a closet or behind the water heater and using that to replace the broken one. No one will ever notice. If your tile is on top of radiant heat, use a flexible thin-set mortar designed for heated floors. And always wear gloves and eye protection when cutting grout or scraping old adhesive. Tile dust is sharp and no fun in the eyes.

Fixing a loose tile is a satisfying project that gives you immediate results. You will save money, avoid a messy demolition, and gain confidence in your DIY skills. Plus, next time you hear that little clicking sound, you will know exactly what to do.