There’s something special about an old dresser. Maybe it’s the one your grandmother handed down, or a craigslist find with solid wood and great bones. But let’s be honest—the finish is likely worn, the color is dated, or that fake wood laminate is just screaming for a makeover. Painting a dresser is one of the most satisfying DIY projects you can tackle, and it doesn’t require a workshop full of fancy tools. With a little patience and the right approach, you can turn a tired piece into the star of your bedroom or guest room.

Start by deciding what kind of finish you want. Do you dream of a sleek, modern look with high-gloss paint? Or maybe a soft, chalky farmhouse vibe? Your choice affects everything from the primer you use to the amount of sanding needed. For most dressers, a satin or semi-gloss latex paint is a safe bet—it’s durable, easy to clean, and forgiving if you don’t have years of painting experience. Chalk paint is another popular option because it sticks to almost anything without heavy sanding, but it does require a topcoat of wax or polyurethane to protect it from scratches.

Before you pick up a brush, you need to prep the dresser. This is the step most people want to skip, and it’s also the reason many paint jobs peel and chip within months. Remove all the drawers and take off the hardware. If the knobs or handles are worth saving, clean them with a degreaser or soak them in warm soapy water. If they’re cheap or just not your style, now is the perfect time to replace them with something that matches your new color scheme. Lay the drawers out on a drop cloth so you can paint them separately.

Next, give the entire dresser a good cleaning. Years of dust, oil from hands, and furniture polish will prevent paint from bonding. A simple mix of water and dish soap works, or you can use a degreaser like trisodium phosphate if the piece is especially grimy. Rinse with clean water and let it dry completely.

Now comes the part that feels tedious but pays off: sanding. You don’t need to strip the dresser down to bare wood. The goal is to scuff the existing finish so primer and paint have something to grip. Use 120-grit sandpaper for most surfaces, and pay extra attention to edges and any glossy spots. If the dresser has a thick varnish or polyurethane, you might need 80-grit to get through the shine. Wipe away all the dust with a tack cloth or a damp rag. For laminate surfaces, you can skip heavy sanding and instead use a liquid deglosser, which chemically etches the finish.

Primer is non-negotiable, especially if you’re painting a dark dresser a lighter color or covering wood grain. A high-quality bonding primer like Zinsser BIN or Kilz works wonders. Apply a thin, even coat using a foam roller for flat surfaces and a brush for corners and details. Let it dry fully—check the can for exact times, but overnight is never a bad idea. Sand lightly with 220-grit sandpaper after the primer dries to smooth out any brush marks, then wipe away the dust again.

Now the fun begins: painting. Thin coats are your best friend. Thick paint drips, leaves brush strokes, and takes forever to dry. Use a high-density foam roller for large, flat areas like the sides and top, and a high-quality angled brush for edges and grooves. For the drawer fronts, lay them flat and use a roller for the face, then brush the edges. Aim for three thin coats, sanding lightly with 220-grit between each coat once the paint is dry. This sounds like a lot of work, but it’s the secret to a smooth, professional finish that looks like it came from a furniture store.

Let the final coat cure for at least 24 hours before reassembling the dresser. If you used latex paint, consider adding a protective topcoat, especially for the top surface where you’ll set lamps and picture frames. A water-based polyurethane in satin or matte sheen adds durability without yellowing over time. Chalk paint users should apply a wax or a polycrylic sealer according to the product instructions.

When you’re ready to put the drawers back in, don’t rush. Check that the paint is fully dry and not tacky. Install the new hardware, or reattach the cleaned originals. Slide each drawer in slowly—sometimes paint adds a tiny bit of thickness that makes drawers stick. If they feel tight, rub a bar of soap or wax along the drawer slides and the edges of the frame. That little trick will have them gliding smoothly again.

One last tip: if you’re painting a dresser that lives in a humid room like a bathroom, skip the latex paint and go with an enamel or oil-based paint. They hold up better to moisture and frequent cleaning. Just be aware they require more ventilation and longer drying times.

Painting a dresser is more than a weekend project; it’s a chance to put your personal stamp on a piece of furniture that might otherwise end up on the curb. Every coat of paint and every new knob is a small victory. And the best part? When you step back and see your finished dresser sitting in your room, you’ll know exactly how much love and effort went into it. That feeling is worth every bit of sanding dust in your hair.