You’ve picked out the perfect faux wood blinds for your living room, and they’re sitting in a box on your dining table, waiting to be put up. Maybe you’ve never hung blinds before, or maybe you’ve wrestled with awkward brackets in the past and ended up with a crooked mess. Take a deep breath. Installing faux wood blinds is one of those home projects that looks more complicated than it actually is, and with a little patience and the right approach, you can have them up in under an hour per window.

The first thing to decide is whether you want an inside mount or an outside mount. An inside mount means the blind fits right inside the window frame, giving it a clean, built-in look. An outside mount covers the entire window opening plus a little extra wall space on each side. For most rooms, an inside mount looks more polished, especially if you have nice trim. But if your window frame is shallow or not quite square, an outside mount might be the smarter choice. Either way, measure twice and cut once is the golden rule here.

Before you touch your new blinds, gather a few basic tools: a tape measure, a pencil, a level, a drill with a screwdriver bit (or a regular screwdriver if you prefer), and a set of small drill bits if you’re drilling into metal or masonry. Faux wood blinds typically come with a set of mounting brackets and screws. Some kits include drywall anchors, which are a good idea if you’re installing into sheetrock without hitting a stud. Don’t skip the anchors, or your blinds could pull loose when you tilt them open and closed.

Start by measuring the width of your window opening at the top, middle, and bottom. If you’re doing an inside mount, take the narrowest of those three measurements and deduct about a quarter inch to ensure the blind slides in comfortably. For an outside mount, you want the blind to extend at least two inches beyond the window opening on each side, so measure the window width and add four inches. Then measure the height from the top of the mounting surface to where you want the blind to end, usually at the sill or a few inches below for more coverage.

Now open the box and lay out all the parts. The blind itself should be easy to handle; faux wood is lightweight but sturdy. The headrail is the top bar that holds the brackets. Most blinds have the brackets preattached or included loose. If they’re loose, you’ll need to snap them onto the headrail first. Pay attention to which way the cord or tilt wand faces. The cords usually hang on the same side as the lift mechanism, so think about which side of the window you prefer to operate the blind from.

Hold the headrail up to your window to see exactly where the brackets will land. Mark those spots with a pencil, checking that they are level across the top. A crooked blind will drive you crazy every time you look at it. Use your level to ensure the line is straight. For an inside mount, the brackets typically install on the top of the window frame or on the inside of the frame, depending on your window type. For an outside mount, you’ll mark the wall above the window.

Drill pilot holes through your marks if the material is hard. If you’re drilling into wood, a pilot hole prevents splitting. If it’s drywall, just drive the screws with anchors. Screw the brackets in place, but don’t overtighten, you want them snug without stripping the hole. Once all brackets are mounted, lift the headrail and snap it into the brackets. You should hear a satisfying click. Then give it a gentle tug to make sure it’s locked.

Next, handle the valance, which is the decorative front piece that hides the headrail. Most faux wood blinds come with a snap-on valance. Line it up and press it onto the headrail until it clicks. That’s it. Finally, test the tilt wand and the lift cord. The slats should open and close smoothly, and the whole blind should raise and lower without rubbing against the frame. If it feels tight, you might need to adjust the brackets slightly by loosening them and repositioning.

One common hiccup is that the cords can get twisted during shipping. If your blind doesn’t lift evenly, check that the cord isn’t tangled inside the headrail. A quick untwist usually solves the problem. Also, if your window is deeper than average, you can purchase extension brackets to fix a larger gap.

Faux wood blinds are forgiving. They don’t warp from humidity like real wood, they’re easy to wipe down with a damp cloth, and they look expensive without the cost. Installing them yourself saves you a bundle compared to hiring a handyman, and the sense of accomplishment when you step back and see those crisp horizontal lines is genuinely rewarding. So go grab your drill, clear off your workbench, and give it a try. You’ve got this.