You’re sitting in the living room, enjoying a quiet evening, when suddenly the washing machine in the laundry room starts up its spin cycle with a sound that can only be described as a cross between a jackhammer and a dying cat. If you’ve ever wondered why your trusty washer has suddenly turned into a percussion instrument, you’re not alone. A noisy washing machine is one of the most common complaints homeowners face, and the good news is that many of the causes are easy to diagnose and fix yourself. Before you start shopping for a new machine or calling a repair technician, let’s walk through the usual suspects and how to silence that racket.

First, it helps to pay attention to the type of noise you’re hearing. A loud banging or thumping during the spin cycle usually means the load inside the drum is unbalanced. This happens more often with front-load washers, but top-loaders can do it too. If you’ve stuffed a bulky comforter in with a few towels, the machine struggles to distribute the weight evenly. The fix is simple: pause the cycle, open the door, and rearrange the clothes so they’re spread out. For larger items, you might need to add a few smaller pieces to balance things out. If the banging persists, check that the machine is sitting level. Use a carpenter’s level on top of the washer and adjust the feet by turning them clockwise or counterclockwise until the bubble is centered. An unlevel machine will rock and bang like a loose washing machine on a wooden floor.

A squealing or screeching noise, especially during the wash or drain cycle, often points to a worn-out drive belt or a problem with the pump. On belt-driven machines, the rubber belt that connects the motor to the drum can stretch, crack, or slip over time. If you hear a high-pitched squeal when the machine starts agitating or spinning, unplug the washer and take a look at the belt. You’ll usually find it behind a panel on the back or bottom of the machine. If it looks frayed or loose, you can replace it with a new one from the manufacturer or a universal part. It’s a straightforward job that requires a screwdriver and maybe a socket wrench. Just be sure to note the belt path before you remove the old one.

Grinding or rumbling sounds are often caused by worn-out drum bearings or something stuck in the pump. When bearings go bad, you’ll hear a low, grinding roar that gets louder during the spin cycle. This is a more serious repair because it involves disassembling the drum, but sometimes you can quiet it for a while by not overloading the machine. However, if the grinding is accompanied by a burning smell or the drum feels wobbly when you spin it by hand, you’re probably looking at a bearing replacement that’s best left to a pro. On the other hand, a rumbling sound that occurs during draining might mean a coin, button, or sock has lodged itself in the pump filter. Most modern washers have a small access panel at the bottom front. Open it, place a shallow pan underneath to catch any water, and unscrew the filter cap. Remove any debris you find, then replace the cap. This simple cleaning can stop a whole lot of noise and prevent a costly service call.

Clicking or tapping noises that happen intermittently during the cycle are often harmless. Many washers have a mechanism that releases detergent or softener from the dispenser, and that can create a click or a thud. But if the clicking is constant and rhythmic, check for foreign objects lodged between the inner and outer drum. Things like coins, paper clips, or bra underwires can drop through the small holes in the drum and rattle around. You can often retrieve these by reaching into the bottom of the drum or using a flashlight and a long pair of tweezers. If you can’t find the culprit, run a short cycle with no clothes and listen—the noise will help you locate where it’s coming from.

Humming or buzzing noises that last more than a few seconds might indicate a problem with the water inlet valve or the drain pump. A strong, steady hum that doesn’t go away after the tub fills usually means the valve is getting power but not opening. This could be due to a stuck solenoid or a clogged screen washer where the water hose connects. Turn off the water, unscrew the hose, and check for a small mesh screen that might be blocked with sediment. Clean it with a toothbrush and reattach. For a drain pump hum, listen during the drain cycle—if you hear the pump buzzing but no water is leaving, the pump might be jammed or the drain hose is kinked. Straighten any kinks and check the pump filter as described earlier.

Safety is always the first step for any DIY repair. Unplug the washing machine before you start poking around inside. If you have a gas dryer on top, make sure you’re not pulling on gas lines. And if at any point the repair feels beyond your comfort level—like dealing with electrical components or heavy disassembly—it’s okay to call a professional. But for most common noises, a little investigation and a basic toolkit are all you need to restore peace and quiet to your laundry room. Your machine will thank you, and so will your ears.