You planted those hydrangeas with dreams of massive, color-packed blooms that would make the neighbors jealous. Instead, you’re staring at a bush full of big, healthy leaves and not a single flower. It’s frustrating, I know. But before you dig it up and swear off hydrangeas forever, take a deep breath. This is one of the most common problems homeowners face, and the fix is usually pretty straightforward once you know what’s going on.

Hydrangeas are not all created equal when it comes to blooming habits. The number one reason your plant might be all leaves and no flowers is that you’re pruning at the wrong time. Many hydrangeas, especially the bigleaf (macrophylla) and oakleaf varieties, set their flower buds on old wood. That means the buds form in late summer and fall, then sit tight through winter to bloom the following spring or early summer. If you prune these bushes in late fall, winter, or early spring, you are literally cutting off next year’s flowers. The solution is simple: only prune these types right after they finish blooming in summer. That gives them plenty of time to grow new wood and set buds before cold weather hits. On the other hand, panicle hydrangeas and smooth hydrangeas (like the classic Annabelle) bloom on new wood—the growth they put out that same spring. You can prune those in late winter or early spring without harming the bloom show at all. If you’re not sure which type you have, look at the leaf shape and flower form. Bigleafs have rounded, coarsely toothed leaves; panicles have cone-shaped flowers that often turn pinkish.

Another common culprit is too much shade. Hydrangeas are famous for tolerating shade, but they need at least a few hours of direct morning sun to really flower well. If your bush is tucked under a dense tree canopy or on the north side of the house, it may be putting all its energy into leaves because it’s trying to catch what little light it can. A simple fix is to trim back overhead branches or move the plant to a spot that gets dappled morning light and some afternoon protection in hot climates. Too much intense afternoon sun can scorch leaves, so a sweet spot is key.

Then there’s the fertilizer problem. Homeowners love to feed their plants, but a high-nitrogen fertilizer designed for lawns will give you a lush, dark green hydrangea with zero flowers. Nitrogen pushes leaf growth at the expense of blooms. Instead, use a fertilizer labeled for flowering shrubs or one that’s higher in phosphorus—the middle number on the fertilizer bag. Phosphorus encourages flower bud development. And don’t overdo it. One application in early spring is usually enough. If you’ve already dumped a ton of nitrogen on, stop feeding for a season and let the plant naturally use up the excess.

Late frosts can also zap flower buds. If you had a warm spell in early spring followed by a sudden hard freeze, those tender buds that started swelling may have turned to mush. That’s especially tough on old-wood bloomers. You can protect plants by covering them with a frost blanket or an old sheet when a late freeze is forecast. For extra insurance, leave the dead flower heads on the plant over winter. They act like little umbrellas for the buds below.

Finally, your hydrangea might just be too young. If you planted it last year, give it time. Many hydrangeas take two or three years to settle in and start blooming reliably. While you wait, make sure it’s getting consistent water—about an inch per week—and a layer of mulch to keep roots cool. A stressed plant doesn’t have energy to flower.

Take a good look at your plant right now. When did you last prune it? Is it in deep shade? Have you been feeding it lawn fertilizer? Answer those questions, and you’ll likely find the problem. Once you make the adjustment, next year could be your best bloom season yet. Happy gardening.